Miki d'Japan 2 - Part Three A: Kyoto. Zen in the City
Finally to come to this of the "must see" cities. One delays coming here, waiting for a convenient conference. Then it is important to catch the opportunity, as there are not so many in one's life.
I grabbed my three days in Kyoto. Backpacker's place-bad one-Toji-an, not far from the Kyoto train station. Which is a hypertech new building, really. Just to remind you that you are in Japan ;-)
In front of the station is hotel which is easy to find, as it hosts rather prominent object at its top:
Here it is at night:
You go east and immediately after 2nd overpass (some 10min walk) turn left, and in the 1st alley there is this small, dirty place. But cheap, 2000 yen/night, 12eur, really nothing for a 1st order touristic destination. Older guy, (the owner ?) is unpleasant old grumbling nobody, the korean girl earning her lodging by attending the place was a bit more pleasant. Anyway, enough for a sleeping place. Also, I met there some characters usual in such places, some lost younger and older kids. Cambodean guy from Paris, kid of refugees of 1980-ies, Japanese boy who did not manage to do his exam for public sector, so he is travelling the world now, before repeating the exam. Another japansese boy, of sweet appearance and hippie (!) style, earning his black points for the soul, without doubt. As said, usual bunch, expected in such place. I arrived by train-not this one, it would be too expensive.
Half hour ride by local train took me from Osaka, for money of the order of 10eur.
I left my luggage and went by bus to the center, where I spent walking afternoon and evening. "Lonely planet" about Japan I do not find very inspirative, rather factional and sparse, but usual info was there.
I choosed to walk the market first, after Taiwan it was not much new experience for me, only I can draw my old comparison again: Taiwan is VERY dirty Japan.
This was the part with small family houses, small businesses.
Next I went through usually crowdy streets
towards west, where I wanted to reach Gion, interesting part of the city some centuries ago.
There are some streets under arcade, Marutamschi-dori and around, very convenient for rainy days shopping.
And from time to time you see some shrine or temple just naturally included in the shopping mall atmosphere:
If you watch better, it seems I also got promoted, Temple of ZenMasterMiki? ;-)
It is shocking always, for us from Europe, to see these buddhistic swastikas around, interesting to note how much we can be affected by negative conotation of symbols, even when so far from its source.
As said, temples really mixed with contemporary architecture:
Finally I know how the Gingko Biloba tree looks ;-) -stinky drop-offs of fruits were averywhere, really awful stink, when amassed.
I also found one and only writing in my language (Croatian) around, in front of Kyoto City Hall. Zagreb is a "Friend City" with Kyoto, I think, therefore such rare thing here:
There was a flee market in front of the building. You do not think about Japan as a place for flee market, yes? Well, it happens, everything stryle and cut-clean, as you might imagine. In some countries they'd be happy to have such neatness in the shops with new things ;-)
As usual, THEY are here, also, apage satanas ;-)
A 2nd hand book-shop. I do not understand anything, Venus, really!
Ok, something I do understand, Siggie is here. Good, they might need him :-D
But, as we see. hairdressers will do all to move the worries away. They certainly have therapeutic role in Japan, nowhere I saw so many and so expensive hairdressers, it seems they are a caste on their own here. Quite arty, also. But here was he first one to go for life-enriching messsage ;-). Adams in 'Hitch-hikers Guide to Galaxy' could send hairdressers not to Space but simply to Japan.
Going to Gion, you have to cross the Kamo river:
Mountains are not far away
Follow me into the edge of Kyoto:
Model shop, Antek would spend some time there...
Modern buildings, small or big, are modern...try to see what is NOT on or at this one.
Sure, I went to see some temples, shrines etc, also. This pic I called kyt1, for "temple 1", and if I would continue like this, I would come to few hundreds for 3 days around.
This is entrance to Chion-in temple, and then I went to Marujama park in front of the hills of Hirashiyama.
This IS Japan
As Thibaut stressed nicely when walking with me streets of Taipei, picture will not transfer the sounds and smells. Here striking was, after coming through quite hectic streets (and it was sunday) to such an oasis of silence and peace. And during next few days I was shocked by this in Kyoto many times. In Europe you can enter the church and find similar oasis, but in Japan they managed to achieve it in open space, in gardens. THIS is the main feature of japanese garden, it's tranquility. In Zen gardens later you will feel it more, I will try to put your brain in that mode, but here was an preview of what I can expect.
Gion. Wooden houses. It reminds Kropowki in Zakopane, southern Poland. Really. Maybe as it is simply hyper-turistic place?
Going out of it, it was not only touristic, it lives
And from the other river bank the City is calling
Life in Kyoto has been organised in quartiers, obvious still today. Gion was fun part, with Geishas around, and in their tea-houses. Expensive place to eat. In general, price for food in Japan will vary more by position of the place, than by the quality of the food, was my feeling. Virtually the same food you can pay 400 or 4000 yen, just changing the quartier.
Asahi (beer) everywhere ;-)
In many places I saw such money collecting. This one was for some Unicef thing. They'd stand like this and massive '...gozaimasu' would go when people passing by. Rather strange thing to see, and we europeans are not used to such massive response to our good will.
Painfully colorful shops around:
Somewhere along Pontocho-dori
Usual small street with bars, hotels, who-know-what...sea of them around!
Night fell, "life" starts
But I was too tired, and went back to Toyian, to sleep.
There I had 1st experience of japanese public bath, as Toyi-an did not have even shower (they claimed to have one in the web-page, but when there, they directed me to nearby public-bath. It was not at all so nearby, and it was quite a challenge to find it, in some small "nearby" street. And actually use it. You enter, do not understand anything, and have to use it. There are some writings in English, but if one is not used... OK, for a nudist beach frequenter as myself, it was not any problem, but someone else could have trouble to swallow the experience of it. You enter the place, take down the clothes and go to shower yourself (sitting on a small plastic chair or so). All among several other men. And you are measured, do not think you are not! At this 1st encounter, I just used the shower, next evening, in the other "nearby" place, I could not resist and entered small pool with HOT water. Entering it was a shock, I thought my heart will jump out, but what a relax then was, mmmm! Give it a try, it is worth! You will understand I have not done any pictures there, won't you?
The next day, my feets felt 2 days walk, Osaka and last afternoon here, quite bad, and I needed to give them rest. As weather was ideal, I decided for a bicycle. Nearby Kyoto station is rent-a-bike place, for 1300yen/day I had very nice 8-speed bike, running smooth. Pure pleasure. Next 7 hours I spent biking througout the city centre and Higashiyama hills at the city western edge, where I was walking previous day.
First I drove directly to the Palace, northwards from the Kyoto Station. To come inside, one needs to acquire special permission in the nearby office. As I wanted to give my ancle in pain a bit rest, I avoided to walk much, so this time I passed it. Park and the walls were impressive enough. Outer walls are some 750x500 m, and inside is inner wall, protecting the Palace, which is invisible from outside. This is one of side door entrances.
Cars not allowed? Some are. It is too big for walking around.
This is not for people's ruler, Emperor is The Ruler of the people. Clear cut shown here. Majestic invisibility, only big space it occupies shows it is important place .
Then I went to see some nearby temples and shrines.
There is plenty of them, and it was not possible to see all, but I feel I did see a good deal of them, thanks to bike.
Here it is, the vehicle of my 1st day of biking around:
One drives and stops every now and then. I will not try to show you even one fifth of what I saw driving during the day, but will show what I liked the most. Shinto Shrines. Small ones, like this one. You drive, and find some thing like this:
And nearby is usually more places like this, where at the end is some small shrine or chapel-like house of some Shinto figures:
Schools are often western style,it seems they like it this way:
Now I will show you the 1st series of Zen temples I found. It is-and I mean it-amazing to enter such silenced artificial nature. And be aware it did not change so much last few hundred years. And for some it is 5 hundred years! Buildings changed, as they are wooden and prone to fire. But gardens, they are often in original shape. Unbelievable timescale for something alive, really. Maybe this is what gives this silent shine to all of them. Walk with me and try to feel the places. Do not forget, it is inside the 3 million people city.
Ladies at walk:
Afterwards I went accross the river again, and to Kyoto University, simply I had an idea to find the astronomy building there. Any special reason, just a task for myself, and a rest of gardens, to see how the Universityh campus looks. The main building
And the mentioned astronomy building:
Going out of there, I saw the beginning of Phylosophical Path, but as I was careful about my ancle, I took a bike ride behind and up to the top of it, not walking it. The top is like this
I like the animals as guardians, Shinto IS animalistic, really, and I like it for this:
View from the top, the city is much below. People who live here have a nice view.
View back towards the University:
And to the dense packing of the city:
I went back towards the city, and just entered some shrines on my way, it was getting darker and my camera was close to its limits, but anyway, these less maintained, but live places more fascinaed me in Japan than blistering megatouristic factory of the city
Religion is well and alive here, Vatican's hierarchy would say "beliefs", but I do not give a damn about their classification, this is not less a religion than their high-pumped Bearded Guy.
And this is in the middle of rather unambitious streets
There was some ceremony inside one of pavillions, marriage, I think
I was captured by the beauty of the place, in this really unexposed position, and then, for my satisfaction, I found this, and it showed me I still feel Beauty unannounced, i was not search for this place specially, it found me!
One important feature of Japan: if after so many nice things (and nice food) you need a toilet, you will find one nearby. And I mean nearby, not having to go around for half an hour or so. And it will look neat like this, and will have paper and water, and you will not have to pay for it. Europe, please look and learn something, and eat shit foir considering yourself so high-civilised and humanistic, when in some countries you have to be master of Tantra yoga not to shit yourself and surrounding.
Houses in Japan sometimes look funny:
This was the end of the first day of biking around. I strongly suggest bicycle for going around when in Kyoto. After this experience, I think I will give a shot to bicycle tours in other places also, when possible. It was new to me, usually I prefer walking around, but Kyoto is too big, you could not see all walking, yopu would have to use buses, and then you have to know where you are going. I prefer to stumble on some things by chance. I need to split Kyoto in two, as it is too big a blog entry for slower connections.
I grabbed my three days in Kyoto. Backpacker's place-bad one-Toji-an, not far from the Kyoto train station. Which is a hypertech new building, really. Just to remind you that you are in Japan ;-)
In front of the station is hotel which is easy to find, as it hosts rather prominent object at its top:
Here it is at night:
You go east and immediately after 2nd overpass (some 10min walk) turn left, and in the 1st alley there is this small, dirty place. But cheap, 2000 yen/night, 12eur, really nothing for a 1st order touristic destination. Older guy, (the owner ?) is unpleasant old grumbling nobody, the korean girl earning her lodging by attending the place was a bit more pleasant. Anyway, enough for a sleeping place. Also, I met there some characters usual in such places, some lost younger and older kids. Cambodean guy from Paris, kid of refugees of 1980-ies, Japanese boy who did not manage to do his exam for public sector, so he is travelling the world now, before repeating the exam. Another japansese boy, of sweet appearance and hippie (!) style, earning his black points for the soul, without doubt. As said, usual bunch, expected in such place. I arrived by train-not this one, it would be too expensive.
Half hour ride by local train took me from Osaka, for money of the order of 10eur.
I left my luggage and went by bus to the center, where I spent walking afternoon and evening. "Lonely planet" about Japan I do not find very inspirative, rather factional and sparse, but usual info was there.
I choosed to walk the market first, after Taiwan it was not much new experience for me, only I can draw my old comparison again: Taiwan is VERY dirty Japan.
This was the part with small family houses, small businesses.
Next I went through usually crowdy streets
towards west, where I wanted to reach Gion, interesting part of the city some centuries ago.
There are some streets under arcade, Marutamschi-dori and around, very convenient for rainy days shopping.
And from time to time you see some shrine or temple just naturally included in the shopping mall atmosphere:
If you watch better, it seems I also got promoted, Temple of ZenMasterMiki? ;-)
It is shocking always, for us from Europe, to see these buddhistic swastikas around, interesting to note how much we can be affected by negative conotation of symbols, even when so far from its source.
As said, temples really mixed with contemporary architecture:
Finally I know how the Gingko Biloba tree looks ;-) -stinky drop-offs of fruits were averywhere, really awful stink, when amassed.
I also found one and only writing in my language (Croatian) around, in front of Kyoto City Hall. Zagreb is a "Friend City" with Kyoto, I think, therefore such rare thing here:
There was a flee market in front of the building. You do not think about Japan as a place for flee market, yes? Well, it happens, everything stryle and cut-clean, as you might imagine. In some countries they'd be happy to have such neatness in the shops with new things ;-)
As usual, THEY are here, also, apage satanas ;-)
A 2nd hand book-shop. I do not understand anything, Venus, really!
Ok, something I do understand, Siggie is here. Good, they might need him :-D
But, as we see. hairdressers will do all to move the worries away. They certainly have therapeutic role in Japan, nowhere I saw so many and so expensive hairdressers, it seems they are a caste on their own here. Quite arty, also. But here was he first one to go for life-enriching messsage ;-). Adams in 'Hitch-hikers Guide to Galaxy' could send hairdressers not to Space but simply to Japan.
Going to Gion, you have to cross the Kamo river:
Mountains are not far away
Follow me into the edge of Kyoto:
Model shop, Antek would spend some time there...
Modern buildings, small or big, are modern...try to see what is NOT on or at this one.
Sure, I went to see some temples, shrines etc, also. This pic I called kyt1, for "temple 1", and if I would continue like this, I would come to few hundreds for 3 days around.
This is entrance to Chion-in temple, and then I went to Marujama park in front of the hills of Hirashiyama.
This IS Japan
As Thibaut stressed nicely when walking with me streets of Taipei, picture will not transfer the sounds and smells. Here striking was, after coming through quite hectic streets (and it was sunday) to such an oasis of silence and peace. And during next few days I was shocked by this in Kyoto many times. In Europe you can enter the church and find similar oasis, but in Japan they managed to achieve it in open space, in gardens. THIS is the main feature of japanese garden, it's tranquility. In Zen gardens later you will feel it more, I will try to put your brain in that mode, but here was an preview of what I can expect.
Gion. Wooden houses. It reminds Kropowki in Zakopane, southern Poland. Really. Maybe as it is simply hyper-turistic place?
Going out of it, it was not only touristic, it lives
And from the other river bank the City is calling
Life in Kyoto has been organised in quartiers, obvious still today. Gion was fun part, with Geishas around, and in their tea-houses. Expensive place to eat. In general, price for food in Japan will vary more by position of the place, than by the quality of the food, was my feeling. Virtually the same food you can pay 400 or 4000 yen, just changing the quartier.
Asahi (beer) everywhere ;-)
In many places I saw such money collecting. This one was for some Unicef thing. They'd stand like this and massive '...gozaimasu' would go when people passing by. Rather strange thing to see, and we europeans are not used to such massive response to our good will.
Painfully colorful shops around:
Somewhere along Pontocho-dori
Usual small street with bars, hotels, who-know-what...sea of them around!
Night fell, "life" starts
But I was too tired, and went back to Toyian, to sleep.
There I had 1st experience of japanese public bath, as Toyi-an did not have even shower (they claimed to have one in the web-page, but when there, they directed me to nearby public-bath. It was not at all so nearby, and it was quite a challenge to find it, in some small "nearby" street. And actually use it. You enter, do not understand anything, and have to use it. There are some writings in English, but if one is not used... OK, for a nudist beach frequenter as myself, it was not any problem, but someone else could have trouble to swallow the experience of it. You enter the place, take down the clothes and go to shower yourself (sitting on a small plastic chair or so). All among several other men. And you are measured, do not think you are not! At this 1st encounter, I just used the shower, next evening, in the other "nearby" place, I could not resist and entered small pool with HOT water. Entering it was a shock, I thought my heart will jump out, but what a relax then was, mmmm! Give it a try, it is worth! You will understand I have not done any pictures there, won't you?
The next day, my feets felt 2 days walk, Osaka and last afternoon here, quite bad, and I needed to give them rest. As weather was ideal, I decided for a bicycle. Nearby Kyoto station is rent-a-bike place, for 1300yen/day I had very nice 8-speed bike, running smooth. Pure pleasure. Next 7 hours I spent biking througout the city centre and Higashiyama hills at the city western edge, where I was walking previous day.
First I drove directly to the Palace, northwards from the Kyoto Station. To come inside, one needs to acquire special permission in the nearby office. As I wanted to give my ancle in pain a bit rest, I avoided to walk much, so this time I passed it. Park and the walls were impressive enough. Outer walls are some 750x500 m, and inside is inner wall, protecting the Palace, which is invisible from outside. This is one of side door entrances.
Cars not allowed? Some are. It is too big for walking around.
This is not for people's ruler, Emperor is The Ruler of the people. Clear cut shown here. Majestic invisibility, only big space it occupies shows it is important place .
Then I went to see some nearby temples and shrines.
There is plenty of them, and it was not possible to see all, but I feel I did see a good deal of them, thanks to bike.
Here it is, the vehicle of my 1st day of biking around:
One drives and stops every now and then. I will not try to show you even one fifth of what I saw driving during the day, but will show what I liked the most. Shinto Shrines. Small ones, like this one. You drive, and find some thing like this:
And nearby is usually more places like this, where at the end is some small shrine or chapel-like house of some Shinto figures:
Schools are often western style,it seems they like it this way:
Now I will show you the 1st series of Zen temples I found. It is-and I mean it-amazing to enter such silenced artificial nature. And be aware it did not change so much last few hundred years. And for some it is 5 hundred years! Buildings changed, as they are wooden and prone to fire. But gardens, they are often in original shape. Unbelievable timescale for something alive, really. Maybe this is what gives this silent shine to all of them. Walk with me and try to feel the places. Do not forget, it is inside the 3 million people city.
Ladies at walk:
Afterwards I went accross the river again, and to Kyoto University, simply I had an idea to find the astronomy building there. Any special reason, just a task for myself, and a rest of gardens, to see how the Universityh campus looks. The main building
And the mentioned astronomy building:
Going out of there, I saw the beginning of Phylosophical Path, but as I was careful about my ancle, I took a bike ride behind and up to the top of it, not walking it. The top is like this
I like the animals as guardians, Shinto IS animalistic, really, and I like it for this:
View from the top, the city is much below. People who live here have a nice view.
View back towards the University:
And to the dense packing of the city:
I went back towards the city, and just entered some shrines on my way, it was getting darker and my camera was close to its limits, but anyway, these less maintained, but live places more fascinaed me in Japan than blistering megatouristic factory of the city
Religion is well and alive here, Vatican's hierarchy would say "beliefs", but I do not give a damn about their classification, this is not less a religion than their high-pumped Bearded Guy.
And this is in the middle of rather unambitious streets
There was some ceremony inside one of pavillions, marriage, I think
I was captured by the beauty of the place, in this really unexposed position, and then, for my satisfaction, I found this, and it showed me I still feel Beauty unannounced, i was not search for this place specially, it found me!
One important feature of Japan: if after so many nice things (and nice food) you need a toilet, you will find one nearby. And I mean nearby, not having to go around for half an hour or so. And it will look neat like this, and will have paper and water, and you will not have to pay for it. Europe, please look and learn something, and eat shit foir considering yourself so high-civilised and humanistic, when in some countries you have to be master of Tantra yoga not to shit yourself and surrounding.
Houses in Japan sometimes look funny:
This was the end of the first day of biking around. I strongly suggest bicycle for going around when in Kyoto. After this experience, I think I will give a shot to bicycle tours in other places also, when possible. It was new to me, usually I prefer walking around, but Kyoto is too big, you could not see all walking, yopu would have to use buses, and then you have to know where you are going. I prefer to stumble on some things by chance. I need to split Kyoto in two, as it is too big a blog entry for slower connections.
posted by mikidkolan at 12:01 PM
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